by Christine Packham
My husband and I lived in the Santa Lucia neighbourhood of central Merida for three years, from November 2014 until November of 2017. While we had enough money to live decently and comfortably, we were definitely not millionaires! Over time we learned how we could live very well on a modest budget, and would now like to share our favourite inexpensive shops and services with other non-millionaires who are living/staying in Merida Centro.
All of the places listed here are within an easy walk from our old house in Merida Centro's Santa Lucia neighbourhood (near Calles 60 and 53). If anyone has any questions about anything on this list (or anything not on this list, for that matter), please feel free to PM me on Facebook.
SHOPPING
Soriana
- on the east side of Calle 56 between Calles 63 and 65
- large, airy and clean Mexican supermarket featuring Mexican prices
- a good selection of wine, beer and liquor
- the meat is apparently the safest in Mexico
Mercado Municipal
- starts at the corner of Calles 56 and 67
- large traditional Mexican market selling absolutely everything, including clothes, shoes, hats, books, fruits and vegetables, canned goods, spices, fish, meats, baked goods, fresh juices, hats, musical instruments, hardware, toys, kitchenware and much much more
Isstey
- on the east side of Calle 60 between Calles 47 and 49
- a large selection of made-in-Mexico canned and packaged food and household goods at rock-bottom prices
- some beer but no wine or liquor
- no fresh fruit or vegetables - these can be found nearby at the Mercado de Santa Ana (see below)
Mercado de Santa Ana
- on the north side of Calle 47 between Calles 60 and 58
- outside are a number of inexpensive souvenir shops
- inside is a small market with a fairly good selection of fresh fruits and vegetables
Del Sol
- on the corner of Calles 60 and 65
- large Zellers/KMart-style department store selling casual clothes, socks, underwear, pyjamas, cosmetics, personal care products, kitchenware, small appliances, and candy
Farmacias de Ahorro
- on the corner of Calles 62 and 63 by the Plaza Grande, and numerous other locations throughout Merida
- extensive selection of generic medications at lower-than-usual Mexican prices
- check out the prices of your favourite meds at www.fahorro.com
- Ahorro has a good points card system for even more savings
Almacenes Anfora
- on the corner of Calles 63 and 64, and the corner of Calles 63 and 54
- large (and ever-changing) selection of dining and kitchenware + small appliances
Parisina
- on the corner of Calles 58 and 65, and numerous other locations throughout Merida
- enormous selection of fabrics and sewing supplies/accessories
BEER, WINE & LIQUOR
OXXO
- on the west side of Calle 62 between Calles 59 and 61, and on the south side of Calle 61 between Calles 60 and 58
- numerous other locations throughout Merida
- extensive selection of cold beer and pre-mixed drinks + some liquor and wine
Licoreria Ajua
- on the south side of Calle 59 between Calles 60 and 62, next to the Subway shop
- excellent selection of liquors, good selection of wine, some beer
RESTAURANTS
Hotel Colonial
- on the corner of Calles 62 and 57
- good all-you-can-eat buffet breakfasts every morning for 110 pesos pp
El Gran Cafe
- on the south side of Calle 47 east of Calle 58 at the start of the Paseo Montejo
- excellent large selection all-you-can-eat buffet breakfasts on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday mornings for 129 pesos pp
El Barrio
- on the corner of Calles 60 and 45
- beautifully-presented and very tasty Mexican nouvelle-cuisine breakfasts and lunches
- the best breakfast is the "Hashbrown" for around 110 pesos
- the coffee is excellent
Pita
- on the south side of Calle 55 between Calles 60 and 58
- open for breakfast, lunch and early dinner
- Mediterranean food with some Mexican selections
- the "Pita Omelette" (around 80 pesos) is excellent - consists of scrambled egg, lettuce, tomato, hummus and pickle tucked into a warm fresh-baked-on-the-premises pita and accompanied by a good-sized salad with homemade dressing
- warning: the chilaquiles, while delicious, are also very spicy!
- two-for-one beers starting at 4.30 pm
- attentive and friendly service
Cantina La Negrita
- on the corner of Calles 62 and 49
- very lively and busy at night
- live Cuban music on Friday nights
- loads of free botanas
- two-for-one cocktails Mondays through Thursdays
- well-priced home-brewed artesanal beers
- the best burgers in Merida
Cafe Peon Contreras
- on the east side of Calle 60 between Calles 57 and 59, at the south end of the Teatro Jose Peon Contreras
- historical bistro-style cafe inside, huge leafy (and breezy - cool year-round) garden cafe outside
- excellent Americano breakfast (bacon and eggs, toast, coffee and juice) for around 80 pesos
- open for breakfast, lunch and dinner
- live music (and videos!) on Friday and Saturday nights
- well-priced and delicious margaritas and daquiris
El Marlin Azul
- on the east side of Calle 62 between Calles 57 and 59
- distinguished by the large cobalt blue awning over the door
- has an air-conditioned section with a separate entrance (ask the waiter)
- for seafood lovers
- the shrimp fajitas dish consists of a huge amount of grilled shrimp served on a hot griddle with sides of warm tortillas, tortilla chips, guacamole and refried beans - all for 110 pesos
The Restaurants at Santa Ana
- on the east side of Plaza Santa Ana (Calles 60 and 47) outside the mercado
- distinguished by the flocks of umbrellas and shouting waiters (vying for your business) outside
- the food is decent and incredibly cheap, the juices are large and fresh-squeezed
- open for breakfast and early lunch (closes at 1.30 pm every day)
Nicte Ha
- on the north side of the Plaza Grande (Calle 61) about halfway along the block (between Calles 60 and 62), under the portales
- the food is ordinary, but for cheap beer and people-watching (the whole world walks past on a daily basis), this place can't be beat
SPA
Merida Spa
- on Calle 53 between Calles 62 and 64, next to the hotel Casa Carmita
- massages, facials, manicures and pedicures
MEDICAL/DENTAL
Dentist
- Dr. Javier Camara-Patron
- located in the Garcia Gineres neighbourhood just slightly north of the Centro
- on the south side of Calle 8 between Calles 9 and 11
- excellent dental work at low prices
- a standard cleaning is around 400 pesos
Doctor
- many farmacias (including Farmacias Ahorro and Isstey, see Shopping section) have doctors' offices attached to them
- these doctors are free, and are good for ordinary ailments (colds, flus, infections, insect bites, sprains, back pain, tummy troubles, minor burns, cuts, and bruises etc.)
TRANSPORTATION
- city buses go everywhere in Merida and cost around 8 pesos per ride
- taxis charge between 40 and 60 pesos for rides within the Centro
PROGRESO
- the Progreso bus terminal in Merida is on the east side of Calle 62 between Calles 65 and 67
- buses to Progreso leave every 15 minutes and a return trip costs around 37 pesos
- travel time to the Progreso bus terminal in Progreso is about 55 minutes
Restaurante Bar Barlovento
- on the west side of Calle 80, about two blocks south of the Malecon (Calle 19)
- good selection of well-prepared and inexpensive Mexican and American food
- excellent cheap margaritas
- open daily for breakfast, lunch and early dinner
Milk Bar
- on the Malecon (Calle 19) between Calles 70 and 72
- excellent and very reasonably-priced Tex-Mex and international food
- the eggs benedict (breakfast) and the shrimp pasta (lunch, dinner) are highly recommended
- open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, 'til late
- loud 60s and 70s rock (sometimes live) after 4.00 pm
Massages
- inexpensive massages on the beach when cruise ships are in port
- 30 minutes for 200 pesos (pre-tip)
Bolom Balam
- on the east side of Calle 80 about one block south of the Malecon (Calle 19)
- big selection of beautiful and well-made leather goods at wonderful prices (the best prices in the Yucatan!)
Hotel Playa Linda
- on Calle 76 between the Malecon (Calle 19) and Calle 21
- very clean, nice, bright and modern rooms
- a double room with fridge and balcony overlooking the Gulf of Mexico costs around 850 pesos per night